The driveshaft on the stock 2005-2007 S197 Mustang is a two piece
articulated design. It weighs in at over 45lbs.
shaft has a hanger bearing that moves up and down violently under hard
A one piece drive is lighter thus allowing it to rotate faster and
gives you more horsepower. Reducing the total rotational mass
the driveline allows the engine to rev up faster and provide more
torque to the wheels. Many manufacturers are quoting a gain of 20rwhp
and 20ft.lbs. of torque along with dropping 1/4 mile times approx 2
tenths of a second. When shopping for a drive
in mind that driveshaft isn't the place to try to save a few dollars;
unless you know it comes from a driveshaft builder that specializes in
driveshafts for high horsepower applications. Any money you save today
will be spent 3 or 4 times over if the joints break and the drive shaft
cuts through your floor plan and underbody. A driveshaft
5k RPMs will do lots of damage to a car if it breaks. This is
where carbon fiber driveshafts provide some advantage. They
stronger, can handle more horsepower and if they brake, they will
splinter into thousands of small pieces and not damage your car.
Aluminum driveshafts offer a more cost effective solution and in some
cases are lighter then even carbon fiber. Aside from the
savings, one other thing to keep in mind is the diameter of the drive
shaft it self. It has been reported that some of the 4"
driveshafts have experienced clearance problems for street application
in vehicles that have been lowered. Also, the emergency brake
cable will need to be moved 1.5" to the left. To do this, simply
drill a new hole and remount the bracket. The 4" drive shaft will
interfere with the Saleen short shift adaptor so if you are planning on
using one of these, you will need to remove the short shift adaptor.
To verify you won't have any problems, call your vendor and
discuss your application before you order.
Finally, the drive shafts
rated at a maximum HP. Make sure that the driveshaft you
will be able to handle all the power your car can throw at them now and
later after you add more mods (like a supercharger or turbo).
Aftermarket driveshafts for the S197 mustang are available from a
number of different vendors and range in price from about $700- over
$1000 for a carbon fiber design. The following list is not
complete but it gives you some idea of the different options available:
4" GT Aluminum - 16.5 lbs
Coast - 4" GT Aluminum - 17 lbS
Power House Automotive - GT 4" Aluminum - PHA-DS05 -
BMR Fabrication - GT 3.7 Carbon fiber - DS005 - 20.7
Denny's Drive Shaft - GT 3" Aluminum -
FM200567NR - 23Lbs
Lethal Performance - GT 3.5" Aluminum - DSS-FDSH4 -
The one piece drive shaft will connect to the pinion gear at a
different angle then the stock driveshaft. To compensate for
the adjustable LCAs are recommended. The Lower Control Arms
will need to be shortened to correct the pinion angle.
do so will result in vibration at various speeds. The OEM pnion angle is between -2.7 and -3.
Finally, for higher HP applications, a driveshaft loop is highly
recommended and required for cars running faster then 11.49 seconds in
the quarter mile or any car that is using slicks.
The following procedure describes how to replace the driveshaft with an
aftermarket one piece driveshaft:
- Jack and jack stands
- Pinion angle finder
- Adjustable Lower Control Arms
- 3/8 ratchet
- Torque wrench
- 12mm socket (12
- 13mm socket
- 14 mm socket
- 5/16" hex bit socket (3/8 drive)
- Wheel bearing and CV joint grease
- Ratchet extensions
Let's get started. Obviously the first step is to jack up the
car. You will need to raise both the front and the rear as
as you can with jack stands. After the car is safely resting on jack
stands, place the car in neutral. This will make it easier to
change the driveshaft by allowing rotation of the shaft and
yokes. If you are planning on using ramps at all, use them in
front. The rear wheels of the car must be able to turn freely
that you can rotate the rear yoke.
The bolts that hold the CV joint to the pinion are 10mm and ford put an
ample amount of locktite on them. They weren't all
tight as far as torqued, but they were tight almost all the way out of
the hole. Here's a tip that the service manual instructions
to mention. Leave two bolts in the rear, finger
is to keep the driveshaft from moving when removing the transmission
Next you can remove the 4 12 point (12mm) bolts that hold the
driveshaft to the transmission.
Your going to need a breaker bar of some kind to put on your
ratchet. I used the closed end of a 1 1/8 inch wrench, worked
like a charm. Be sure to mark the tranny flange and U joint
flange incase you ever want/need to put the stocker back in, you want
to put it in the same holes. Once you remove all the bolts
need to pry the flange off the tranny. Don't just pry at any
spot. In the picture above you want to put the pry
the U shaped spot to the right of the bottom bolt. If you
you can use your tire iron as a pry bar you are sadly
ended up using a large flat blade screw driver and it came off easier
than I expected.
Now is the time to find something to lay between the exhaust pipes to
support the driveshaft. Actually you should allready have done
that. I used a couple of pieces of wood. you can go
now and remove the two bolts you left in the rear mount Now
need to remove the carrier bearing bracket bolts.
The bolts are 13mm but a 1/2 socket will also work. You'll need some
extensions on the socket to get at these bolts. Be sure to
off the aluminum spacers between the body and carrier bracket.
One of mine came off by itself, but the other was stuck
used a screw driver to pop it off. You don't want them
off down the road.
You'll need to slide the driveshaft out the back. It would
to have another person, but I did it by myself. Now to put
new driveshaft in.
First you need to install the aluminum adapter to the pinion flange
using the 6 allen head bolts (hex bolts) supplied. I had to
discount auto to buy a 5/16th inch, 3/8 inch drive hex bit
socket. It cost $5. Use loctite on these bolts!
Once again I had to crawl out from under the car to release the E-brake
in order to turn the pinion flange, to access all the bolts.
E-brake worked fine to hold the rear end because Ford specs are 41 ft
lbs for these bolts. Be sure you have the car high enough or
short enough torque wrench. There is very little room to
these bolts due to the exhaust.
With the drive shaft removed, you will need to adjust your pinion angle
by shortening the length of the Lower Controla Arms. If you
have adjustable LCAs, you can continue with the installation but take
it easy because the car will vibrate unless the pinion angle is
corrected. As previously stated, the OEM pnion angle is between -2.7 and -3.
The following article describes how to adjust the
to correct the pinion angle:
Now is the time to put the new shaft into place. I recommend
finding something to lay across the H pipe that is tall enough to put
the driveshaft up to the height of the tranny flange.
You need to attach the rear first using the 4, 14mm bolts and lock
washers supplied. I went ahead and used locktite here to, but
it's probably redundant. The manufacturer did not specify how
tight to torque these but Ford calls for 41 ft. lbs in its
specifications. Again, the driveshaft will need to
rotated to get to all the bolts.
With the rear attached slide the front up to the transmission mount and
install the original 12 point 12mm bolts you removed. Use
on these bolts! Ford specs say 76 ft lbs. Be sure
tires are resting on something or your driveshaft will spin when
The slip joint on the driveshaft will need to greased after the
install. I used Valvoline full synthetic wheel bearing and CV
joint grease. The hardest part of
this install is adjusting the pinion angle. Total
install time should be between 3-4 hours provided you have all the
tools and are properly prepared.
When you're all done, lower the car and enjoy your new driveshaft.