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Disclaimer: You should never do any modification that you are not 100%
sure you understand. If you do not have the proper tools, proper
workspace, or full understanding of the modification and the risks of
performing the modification you should seek a professional installer to do
the work. The information on these pages are merely a "write up" of my
experience and should be used merley as a "beginning" point for your
research into the modification. They are not a "how to" or "step by
step" instructions. Proper procedures for servicing your car can be found
in the Ford service manual. I am not responsible for any damage or injury
that may occur if you perform any of the modifications from my write ups..
This write up was originally posted on
http://www.2mfffabshop.com/eibach.htm |
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I'll post a couple Ford images so that people
that are not familiar with the suspension systems on the 05 GT can have an
understanding of what I am talking about. It may also help make the close
up pictures we took during the process make more sense. |
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First we put the entire car up securely on jack
stands. Then we removed all the wheels. We started at the rear suspension
first. We put the jack under the rear differential to hold up the axle,
and proceeded to remove the the lower bolts from each shock. Next we
removed the brake line bracket from each frame rail by removing the one
bolt holding it. Some have said they did it without removing the bracket,
In my opinion it is less risky to just remove a bolt on each side that to
let the rubber line stretch against the crimped on fitting. With the lines
out of the way we were able to push down on the hub and pull that sides
spring out and replace. The we moved to the other side and repeated the
remove-replace procedure. |
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Springs |
Brake Line Bracket |
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Then we moved to the front. The
fronts are a little more complicated. First we removed the brake line
bracket, sensor wire retainer (black plastic retainer), and sway bar link
from the spindle and strut assembly. |
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We then proceeded to remove the 2
bolts holding the lower strut assembly to the spindle, making sure to
support the spindle from pivoting forward. With one person holding the
strut assembly the other removed the 4 nuts attaching the top of the strut
assembly to the strut tower. With the nuts off we then removed the strut
assembly from the car. |
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Spindle bolts |
Strut Assembly |
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With the strut assemble out it is
time to compress the spring. We rented a strut spring compressor from the
local auto parts store (make sure you get the compressor for use with a
strut assembly). With a compressor on each side of the spring begin
tightening the bolts (compressing). An air gun comes in
reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaal handy for this step. With the sring compressed you
can remove the retaining nut holding the top bearing assembly to the
strut, remove the bearing assembly, and remove the compressed spring. |
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Spring compressor |
Top bearing assembly |
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With the spring out, modify the
bumpstop per the Eibach instructions. Then, compress the new spring and
reverse the procedures for the install. |
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Below are the before and after
specs and pics. |
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Before |
After |
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Distance from ground to wheel well center
point: |
Distance from ground to wheel well center
point: |
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Front - approx 28 1/8" |
Front - approx 27" |
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Rear - approx 29" |
Rear - approx 27 5/8" |
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Distance from top of tire to wheel well
center point |
Distance from top of tire to wheel well
center point |
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Front - approx 2 1/4" |
Front - approx 1 1/8" |
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Rear - approx 3" |
Rear - approx 1 3/8" |
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