I decided to take advantage of the 3-day weekend and remove the panels from the rear interior and do the job right the right way: on the work bench. It takes less than 5 minutes to remove the panels and lower rear seat - a few of those plastic push pins and some slight maneuvering and they're out. No need to remove the upper panel (the one that surrounds the quarter window and has the upper seat belt mount). This can be done with the panels in the car, but I would absolutely recommend against doing that. With the panel on a bench you have the lighting you need, the visibility you need, and the maneuverability you need to get the vinyl in place and make the proper cuts once the adhesive it set.

Let me also add that if you're a perfectionist or squeamish with the very strong possibility of messing up a major piece of the interior of your car, either skip this project or take it to a professional. As an amateur you will not be able to make this perfect by any means, but it will be much better than "good enough" if you take your time.

The things I learned, when comparing it to the first time I did it with the panels in the car, is take your time and don't rush the prep work, the laying of the vinyl, the cutting of the excess and having the proper tools (mainly a flat blade screw driver and an X-Acto knife with a new blade).

So bare with me once more, and here's what you'll need to complete the job:

1. The vinyl material, It can be ordered from Miamicorp.

Here's the crimson red for the ICAP http://www.miamicorp.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=DV2819

Charcoal black
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...itemcode=L7485
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...temcode=DV5410

Camel
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...itemcode=L7486
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...temcode=DV7720

Dove
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...itemcode=L7487
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.asp...temcode=DV6665

2. A can of 3M 8088 vinyl adhesive (you can order this form Miami Corp Also)

3. An X-Acto knife with a new blade

4. Flat blade screw driver

5. Spline tool (can be purchase at Lowes/Home Depot for a few bucks)

6. 220 or 180 grit sandpaper

7. Goo gone

8. Silver Tinsel Welt or your favorite color.

Once you have the panel out and on the bench, lightly sand the recessed area with the sandpaper to rough up the surface and give it some tooth so the adhesive will stick. Blow off the dust from the sanding. Then wipe down the recessed area (where the vinyl will go) and the groove around it with rubbing alcohol a few times - this will remove any interior dressing, oils, dust, etc. I used duct tape to mask off the perimeter of the area, and the outer-most edge of the groove. Take your time doing this - you want the adhesive to go into the groove, but not both "walls" of it. Look at your front door panels and you'll see what I mean.
Once you have the duct tape in place, lay your vinyl down to get a rough idea of how large a piece you'll need. I'd recommend cutting it at least 2" larger than the area you need, then use the spline tool to actually push it into the groove - this will effectively mark the rear of the vinyl so you'll know where to spray your adhesive without overdoing it.

OK, remove the vinyl and lay it aside - get ready to spray the adhesive on your panel. The spray nozzle will have 3 different size patterns, I used the medium one. Spray away, being sure to obviously cover the recessed area and the groove - don't color outside of the lines! Make sure the entire area is covered in a good coat (without overdoing it) of the adhesive. Now do the same thing to the back of the vinyl, going as little as possible outside of the line from when you pressed it into the groove. It won't hurt if you go too much over the line, but it will make setting the piece a bit more difficult as it will stick to the duct tape.

Now the fun starts, and this is the first of 3 moments of truth. Walk away. Go have a quick sandwich, guzzle a beer, slam a can of Coke, take a poop. Do what ever you have to do to not touch anything for at least 5 minutes. You have to let the adhesive "tack". This means not rushing and thinking you've waited long enough when in fact it was only 30 seconds. You'll know when it's ready when you can touch it with your finger and it's sticky, but doesn't stretch away with your finger like mozzarella cheese on a piece of pizza. Once you're sure it's properly tacked, get ready for moment of truth #2 - laying the vinyl down. Take a deep breath and count to 5, then lay it down, making sure you have it positioned as closely as possible when you initially made the dry run. You can pull it up if you're too far off base, but this stuff does set pretty quick. Focus on smoothing the vinyl to the contours of the recessed area first, making sure it sits flat. Then use the spline tool to force the vinyl into the groove. Go ahead and lean on it as hard as you can, you won't hurt it. The key here is to use the part of the vinyl that's sticking up (the extra) and push that into the groove. It's hard to describe but basically you don't want to stretch the material that's already laid flat, use the slack. Use the flat blade screwdriver to get into the areas that the spline tool won't go. You might have to do this several times before the vinyl sticks to the adhesive in the groove. It will work, but I think it's finicky due to not being able to properly sand in the groove. Don't freak out if it looks like the vinyl isn't going to stick in the groove. Keep working it. Once you have it in as good as you can get it, and verify again that the flat area is smooth and follows the contour, walk away again Go watch TV for 30 minutes. Then come back and push it into the groove again. You might notice that it seems to stick better. Work it into the groove a few times with the spline tool and the screwdriver. Walk away again for 30min, then come back and do it again. In fact, I laid the first piece down yesterday morning around 830am, worked it into the grooves as well as I could, then left for the day around 930 am. I came home 8hrs later and pushed it into the groove with the tools, smoothed out a wrinkle in the flat area and it stuck. Now you see why I said to take your time and not rush this. Yes the adhesive sets up quick from what I've seen, but once you have it in place and are pushing it into the groove that's where patience comes in.

OK so now we're ready for moment of truth #3 - cutting. This requires a steady hand and being able to keep an eye on your blade with regard to its position on the vinyl within the groove. Look again at your door panel - that's how you want your cut to be. As I said earlier, this won't be perfect, but if you're using the welting in your doors like I am, the welt will mask small errors in the cutting process. If you're not using the welting, then Godspeed my friend you're a braver soul than I am!
OK - cut away! Cut along the inside of the groove, at the bottom of the groove where the inside vertical "wall" meets it. It's easy to see what I mean when you're looking at it. Once you've removed about 8" of it, completely remove that piece and start again until you have all of the excess cut away. Now it's time to carefully and slowly remove the duct tape. Be extra careful doing this - if any of the tape is stuck to your vinyl it will pull it up. Keep an eye on it as you pull it up and have your knife ready to cut if there are any areas that didn't cut cleanly. Use the Goo-Gone on a rag to remove the tape's residue. This stuff seemed to slightly discolor my panel, the black part not the red. Some Vinylex dressing took care of that and it's fine now. If you don't use welting, you're done and can move on to the next panel. If you use the welting like me, I laid down a small bead of clear silicone adhesive in the groove to hold the welt in place. The groove around the recess isn't as uniform as the groove in the front door, and the welt won't stay in place as easily and needs some help.

Edited by Octavio Diaz:

On convertibles, the rear speakers are behind the rear side panels.  There are hundreds of little holes that allow the sound to flow through the panels.  To complete this mod, the material covering the holes must be removed.  I used a dremel to drill each of the holes open. Unfortunately, when you do this, the white material on the inside of the holes is visible.  I used a red sharpie marker to color the inside of each hole.