CDC Shaker Hood System
Install
By Taco Bill
Edited by Octavio Diaz
Trimming the shaker:
As you
see, Ford has accommodated a section in the hood specifically for a hood scoop.
I
purchased this Shaker system primarily for cosmetic reasons. As it does
provide additional ‘ram air’ to the air filter (at highway speeds),
the HP gains are minimal at best. However, I do consider this a
functional hood scoop versus the blocked off ones.
One note about this installation, I already had the K&N CAI
installed. So, any step regarding fitment of the ductwork to air box will
be a deviation from the CDC instructions. I will include a few file
photos of the modification on the OEM air box for those adapting this Shaker to
the factory intake.
If you have a different CAI, the install will basically be the same with the
exception of the duct routing (to heat shield).
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Out of the box.
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Installation:
1.
Lay down a strip of masking tape (I used the green 1.4” wide 3M Paint
& Body tape, stronger than the blue 3M Painters tape) down the center of
the hood, then mark the centerline.
Hint: The nose of the
hood has a centerline crease. To find center on the back, split the
distance between the washer nozzles.
Once
done, lay several strips of masking tape on each side of the centerline
tape. Be sure to go wider than the area to be cut out.
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2.
Unroll the template out and tape it to the hood.
Aligning
points on the template are the rear curvature of the hood’s edge and
its centerline.
Try and
lay the template as flat as possible. I know it’ll be hard to get it
to lay perfectly flat, so concentrate on the centerline and edge of hood marks
to make sure they’re spot on.
3.
Using a utility knife (with a NEW blade), carefully press hard into the cut
line of the template. You MUST press hard enough to go through the
template, vinyl stripes (if applicable), and score the paint past the clear
coat and into the base.
This is
what’s called, “Beyond the point of no return!”.
The idea
behind this is to reduce any chance of the paint flaking during the cutting
process.
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4. Once
the template is cut out, peel away the inner masking tapes, exposing the area
where you’re about to cut.
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5.
Open the hood and remove the hood liner.
The plastic fasteners holding the liner up are the
push-in type. Carefully pry them up, the liner can easily tear. Cup
your hand beneath the clip as your prying them off, I lost 2 somewhere in the
engine bay! (Autozone has the tool and
replacements)
(file photo)
6.
Use a large moving blanket or sheet of plastic and cover the entire engine bay,
even drape it over the fenders for added protection.
I used a
4x4 piece of wood to support the hood solid and to give it the additional
height when drilling and cutting.
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7.
Now comes the 2nd point of no return. Get a punch and mark
your drill spot approximately ¾” – 1” away from the
tape’s edge.
Using a
¼” drill or larger (or step drill if you prefer), make yourself a
makeshift drill-stop by wrapping several layers of masking tape about a
¾” up then drill your hole into the hood using the punch dimple as
your mark.
Important: You must use the
punch prior to drilling or risk the drill bit walking onto your hood paint!
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8.
Using a jigsaw with a NEW blade (at least a 14TPI or finer (up to 24), drop it
into the hole you drilled and start cutting. Don’t rush the
cut. Let the blade do it’s cutting.
Stop
every several inches and lay some masking tape across the cut area to reduce
any chattering and/or bouncing.
Tip: Chips and
shavings will start to fly everywhere! Learn from my mistake,
drape something over the whole windshield, most of the roof, and outside the
masking lines on the hood.
Edit by Octavio Diaz. Wrap some tape around the base of the Jigsaw as shown in
the picture below. It will reduce
the chance of the saw scratching through the tape and leaving marks on the
hood.
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9. Get
a small file and file down any sharp edges along the cut area.
I used
some primer along the edge, but this is optional.
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10.
Take some time now to clean up any remaining metal shavings then peel up all the
masking tape except for the centerline tape.
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11.
Locate the ball stud bracket on the intake manifold using the supplied
U-clamp. Use Loctite on the Allen stud.
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Just a
note, I have already deviated from the CDC directions because I found some
problems in their sequence. By doing the steps their way, you’ll
run the risk of having your scoop not centered within the upper trim ring.
What I
did was to ‘pre-fit’ the Shaker shroud before permanently tacking
down the upper trim ring to the hood. The trim ring has substantial play
within the hood cut-out, so final placement is critical.
If you
want the scoop to be perfectly centered with even gaps around the trim ring,
follow my sequence.
12.
Remove the 2 upper throttle body bolts and set aside.
These are
the primary attachment points for the Shaker shroud (the ball cup on the intake
manifold being secondary).
The 2
‘L’ brackets on the shroud are slotted side to side, allowing for
some adjustments.
Also,
disconnect the red/black MAF sensor plug from the air tube (red lock lever
slides back to release the plug).
Note: If using the
stock intake, modify the hose clamp that connects the air tube to the throttle
body per CDC’s instruction (the stock location of the clamping screw
interferes with the shroud, it gets moved over to the side like where I
installed mine on the K&N).
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13.
Pre-fit the Shaker shroud on top of the engine.
Engage
the ball on the bottom of the shroud to the ball stud bracket installed in step
11. The front ‘L’ brackets get positioned to the throttle body
(do not install the 2 bolts yet removed from step 12).
Now
things are coming together! But, don’t get too excited,
there’s still more work ahead.
Take note
on the front and rear sections of the shroud during this pre-fit step.
You will
see the MAF sensor on the K&N air tube rides the front corner of the shroud
fairly hard. (For those with the OEM air box or other CAI systems, this
won’t be an issue)
Check for
clearance to a grounding strap on the firewall. If it’s riding, get
some needle nose pliers and bend it down away from the shroud.
Ensure
that the brake booster line is routed outside of the shroud.
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14.
Modify the shroud to accommodate the MAF plug for the K&N.
NOTE: If you have the
OEM air box, skip this step.
Mark the
location of where you’ll need to cut a hole in the shroud to feed through
the MAF plug.
Remove
shroud from car.
Using a hole saw, cut a 2” hole into the shroud. Once complete, file smooth.
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15.
Once again, pre-fit the shroud back on the engine.
Ensure
that the MAF sensor now has clearance to the shroud.
Take a
look around and see if anything else is riding or needs to be modified.
I
discovered that the shroud was rubbing up against the lower radiator hose, so
additional trimming was required to gain clearance.
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16.
Close the hood completely (full latch).
No
fasteners are installed at this point so the shroud can remain in an adjustable
state.
Now take
a look at what’s going on.
First
thing you want to do is align the center vertical rib in the scoop to the
hood’s centerline (from the masking tape you laid down earlier).
17.
Open the hood and re-install the 2 throttle body bolts removed from step 12.
This is
the part where lots of patience will come in handy.
Access to
these throttle body bolts will be difficult, and those with the C&L,
it’ll be next to impossible without further trimming of the shroud.
However,
with this K&N, it is possible to access the bolts without any modification
to the shroud.
Tape
together a deep ¼” drive 10mm socket to a long extension so it
won’t fall off. Then, lightly tape the bolt into the socket so it
won’t fall off as you guide it under the shroud. With the aid of a
flashlight, insert the bolts through the ‘L’ bracket and into the
throttle body and start them by hand. You made need to push down and/or
pull up on the corner of the scoop to get the bolts to start threading.
Do not
torque these bolts down yet, just leave them loose.
Edit by Octavio Diaz: If you are using a C&L, there will be no clearance
to install the bolts. Instead, you will want to install studs on the top 2 bolts
and tighten the T/B with nuts and locking washers prior to installing the
shaker. In this scenario, there is
no need to tighten anything on the front of the shaker. The front holes of the shaker simply
slide over the remaining portions of the studs and then snap down in the back
on top of the Ball Stud bracket.
18.
Close and latch the hood once more.
This is
the final alignment step of the scoop and upper trim ring.
Ensure
that the scoop’s center rib is perfectly aligned to the hood’s
centerline and that it’s also not canted in the rear one way or the
other.
Peel back
the centerline masking tape, but don’t remove it, just incase you need to
reference back to it.
Drop the
upper trim ring onto the hood. Float the trim ring into place (will have
a fair amount of play in all directions) making sure that the side to side gap
and front to rear gap to the scoop is even and centered.
Now you
see why we’re deviating from CDC’s direction which would’ve
had you permanently tack the trim ring to the hood after step 10.
Once the
scoop and trim ring is in place, lay down some masking tape to border the trim
ring and make any marks (for reference) on the tape to make sure the trim ring
gets installed in the exact spot you aligned it in.
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19. Prep and install the 3M tape on the upper trim ring.
Lightly
sand the bottom area of the trim ring where the 3M tape will go. CDC
recommends 80-120 grit sand paper.
Clean the
area with the supplied alcohol pad (or use your own with a clean rag).
Wipe the
contact area with the supplied 3M Adhesion Promoter and let dry.
Install
the 3M double side tape on the trim ring. Keep it in one long piece,
working around each corner and keeping it as flat as possible. I laid the
tape down separately at the corners, but in hindsight, I should’ve kept
it as one piece because it’ll make positioning on the hood much
easier. Mine was a one shot deal; not recommended.
20.
Wipe down the area of the hood with alcohol where the trim ring will be
installed.
Peel back
3-4” of the red tape backing of the 3M tape and position the trim ring
back onto the hood aligning it to the reference tape marks. Once the trim
ring is tacked down, slowly peel away the rest of the tape backing always
ensuring that it remains aligned with the reference tapes.
Once all
the tape backing is removed, press down on the trim ring with your fingers to
completely seat it.
(no picture)
21.
Open the hood and go for final torque on the throttle body bolts.
Torque:
89lbs-in
22.
Temporarily re-install the hood liner removed from step 5.
You
don’t have to use all the push-in fasteners, just a few just to hold it in
place.
Using a grease pencil, trace the outline of the upper trim ring
from the top of the hood.
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23. Remove the hood liner off the car.
Lay down
the hood liner on the floor and place the lower trim ring on the liner (hump
with felt strip at bottom – rear of car) so it matches the grease pencil
line you made from the upper trim ring.
Trace
around the outside of the lower trim ring then remove the ring off the liner.
Measure
½” in towards the center from the newly traced outer line.
Make several ½” marks around the perimeter then free hand (or use
a straight edge) to join all the marks.
You now
should have 3 separate and complete trace marks on the liner.
Using a
utility knife, trace and cut out the ½” (middle of the 3 lines)
line you made. The liner cuts pretty easily.
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24. Final ring assembly.
Re-install
the hood liner using all of the push-in retainers.
Install
the lower trim ring up against the upper trim ring sandwiching the hood liner
in-between. Make sure that the hump with felt strip is at the bottom.
The two
trim rings will snap together.
Using a
small indexing pin (like a punch or equivalent), align the holes where the
rivets will be installed, 4 total.
Once
aligned, insert the rivet and install.
You’ll
need a rivet installing tool to perform this.
Edit by Octavio Diaz:
The
rivets supplied by CDC are very thin and consequently so are the holes. Lining the holes up proved to be very
difficult. I chose to drill the
holes slightly larger and use the next sized larger rivets. This made it much easier.
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25.
The Shaker install is almost complete.
All
that’s left at this point is the duct work to either the CAI heat shield
or to the OEM air box.
26A. Air duct work routing for OEM intake.
Remove
the air box using CDC’s instructions. Position the supplied paper
template in preparation to cut a hole into the side of the air box.
Important: The hole must
be precisely 3” in diameter. CDC recommends drilling a 2
¾” diameter hole, then open it to
3” by hand using a file.
Clear the
air box of any debris, then snap in the lower CDC air
tube into the 3” opening in the box.
Re-install
the air box back into the car using the supplied S&B hi-flow air filter (or
use any air filter you want).
Re-connect
the MAF connector to the sensor in the air tube.
Using the
supplied 3” rubber coupler and hose clamps, connect the upper and lower
air tubes together.
Lastly,
route the 4 water drain hoses located at each corner of the shroud down towards
the bottom so water can freely flow out. Do not route next to the exhaust
manifold or any moving parts. Secure with the supplied zip ties
(optional, but recommended).
The
following are file photos not of my car; for reference only.
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26B. Air duct work routing for K&N CAI.
Re-connect
the MAF connector to the sensor in the K&N air tube.
Route the
4 water drain hoses located at each corner of the shroud down towards the
bottom so water can freely flow out. Do not route next to the exhaust
manifold or any moving parts. Secure with the supplied zip ties
(optional, but recommended).
I had to
modify the lower air tube in order for it to align to the heat shield; I tried
to keep this hole as low as possible.
Here’s
what the issue was..
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As you
see, the lower air duct connection was no where close to the heat shield.
I cut a
section out of the middle of the lower duct in an attempt to shorten it, thus
raising it. It worked, but that middle section is very flimsy making the
cutting and trimming very difficult. I used a hacksaw.
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Next step was to drill a perfect 3” hole into the side of
the heat shield. Of course, I didn’t have a 3” hole saw, so I
had to go buy one just for this purpose. The material used for the shield
is steel, drilling into it was a PITA to say the
least. Luckily, I had a drill press at my disposal (tip: wrap tape all
over any clamping surface on the heat shield to protect it from any
marring). Once the hole was cut, I filed the rough edges and
touched it up with some flat back paint.
As things
started to come together, I hit a bump. Being the heat shield is (about)
an inch more forward than where the OEM air box would be, the 3” rubber
coupler that connects the upper to lower air duct was at it’s
limit. Press down on the air duct ever so slightly would cause the lower
duct to pop out from the coupler. Bottom line, the 3” coupler was
too short. Not only that, but a slight angularity issue also came into
play as a result of modifying the lower duct.
I
searched high and lower for a 3” ID coupler that was at least 3
½” in length. I was about to give up when I found Hose Techniques. They has
exactly what I was searching for, a black hump hose with a 3” ID x 3
½” length, but at a price ($30!).
Hump
hoses are used when you have a slight deflection between two connecting pipes.
I also
decided to replace the lower rubber coupler that held my modified lower duct
together with a matching black silicone hose (same material as the hump
hose). Thankfully, this one was only $12.
Hump hose
PN#: 52.300-350-110
Straight
hose PN#: 50.300-300-110
In the end, everything worked out to my satisfaction.
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Edited by
Octavio Diaz:
I Took a slightly
different Approach then Bill at this point. Instead of going with the hump hose and
straight hose, I simply bought a piece of 3’x3” Spectre Flex hose at Auozone for
$19.99. This is a 3’ hose
with couplings ends and clamps. I
heated one of the couplings with a heat gun since it was quite cold in the
garage and the rubber was a bit stiff.
I then slid it over the modified lower duct and held it in place with
one of the 3” clamps. I then
attached the flex hose to the lower duct and measured enough of the hose to
connect to the Cold air outlet on the shaker.
Finally, I trimmed the straight hose that came with the shaker and
installed it inside the air shield to extend the air flow and focus it directly
onto the filter. I held this piece
of hose with the other 3” clamp that came with the Spectre
hose.
Spectre / 3 ft. x 3
in.
Black Air Duct Hose P/N: 8741
Installing 281 Emblem:
The Emblems are available from Autobadges.com for $10 each
There are different ways of installing decals and emblems, from
the one eye method to the measuring tape; I used both.
Also, there's the question of how far forward (or back) should the emblem be on
the scoop. The 69/70 Shaker scoops had their CID emblems near the front of the
scoop opening and the center reserved for any script emblems (e.g. Cobra
Jet). I placed the leading edge of the emblem even with the top center
cooling fin/rib. As far as up and down, I just chose it to be closer to the
lower half.
Here's how I installed them:
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* Wipe the general area where the emblem is to be placed with
alcohol.
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* Place the emblem's forward edge against the masking line using
some tape to hold it in place. Up/down location as well as clocking
(leveling) should be done at this point as well.
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* Place another strip of masking tape (perpendicular) over the
tape holding the emblem. This will ensure that the emblem will swing back
down into the layout position with minimal shifting.
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* Swing the emblem back down onto the scoop.
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* Apply pressure evenly across the emblem to seat the tape.
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Note: Once one side is complete, take some measurements at various spots
and duplicate it for the other side to ensure a mirror image.
The emblem is made of plastic, so it can follow the slight contoured surface of
the scoop. The corner edge may have a little trouble sticking, but I think once
out in the sun and the adhesive heats up a bit you can press down on the
corners to have them stick. That 3M tape that's used is some pretty strong
stuff.
This simple and inexpensive mod really draws attention to the Shaker scoop
Edited by Octavio Diaz:
Use alcohol to clean the shaker before installing.
If you are installing this in a cold climate, use a heat gun or
hair dryer to warm up the shaker and the badge before laying the sticker on the
shaker.
Installation complete!!
Reference:
CDC Shaker Install Manual & Mustang Monthly Shaker Install
On car pics:
Trimming the Shaker:
By Octavio Diaz
In my opinion, one of the things that I did not like about the shaker is that
the plastic shroud covered too much of the Engine. If you have a stock engine that may be a
good thing because it hides the ugly unfinished valve covers. However, I you spent the money and or
time installing aftermarket covers or customizing your covers, you are going to
want to show them off.
This is a fairly simple procedure. First, place the shaker upside down on a
flat surface and remove the 6 bolts holding the metal shaker to the plastic
shroud. Next, remove the cold air
tube from the shroud by removing the 2 nuts and bolts attaching it to the
shroud.
Lay a strip of masking tape where you want the shroud
trimmed. This is where you get be
creative. Cut off as much or as
little of the shroud as you need to expose your engine and accessories. Use a large socket or other round device
to mark the corners and then simply connect the lines with a straight edge.
Now, carefully cut along the line. Others have recommended using a dremmel tool with a router bit but I found that using a jigsaw ga