CDC Shaker Hood System Install

By Taco Bill

Edited by Octavio Diaz

 

Out of the Box

Installation

Installing 281 Emblem:

Trimming the shaker:

As you see, Ford has accommodated a section in the hood specifically for a hood scoop.

 

I purchased this Shaker system primarily for cosmetic reasons.  As it does provide additional ‘ram air’ to the air filter (at highway speeds), the HP gains are minimal at best.  However, I do consider this a functional hood scoop versus the blocked off ones.

One note about this installation, I already had the K&N CAI installed.  So, any step regarding fitment of the ductwork to air box will be a deviation from the CDC instructions.  I will include a few file photos of the modification on the OEM air box for those adapting this Shaker to the factory intake.

If you have a different CAI, the install will basically be the same with the exception of the duct routing (to heat shield).   







Out of the box.

 

 

 

Installation:


1.   Lay down a strip of masking tape (I used the green 1.4” wide 3M Paint & Body tape, stronger than the blue 3M Painters tape) down the center of the hood, then mark the centerline.
 
Hint:  The nose of the hood has a centerline crease.  To find center on the back, split the distance between the washer nozzles.
 
Once done, lay several strips of masking tape on each side of the centerline tape.  Be sure to go wider than the area to be cut out.

 





2.  Unroll the template out and tape it to the hood.
 
Aligning points on the template are the rear curvature of the hood’s edge and its centerline.
 
Try and lay the template as flat as possible.  I know it’ll be hard to get it to lay perfectly flat, so concentrate on the centerline and edge of hood marks to make sure they’re spot on.





3.  Using a utility knife (with a NEW blade), carefully press hard into the cut line of the template.  You MUST press hard enough to go through the template, vinyl stripes (if applicable), and score the paint past the clear coat and into the base.
 
This is what’s called, “Beyond the point of no return!”.
The idea behind this is to reduce any chance of the paint flaking during the cutting process.

 

 


4.  Once the template is cut out, peel away the inner masking tapes, exposing the area where you’re about to cut.


 




5.  Open the hood and remove the hood liner.
 
The plastic fasteners holding the liner up are the push-in type.  Carefully pry them up, the liner can easily tear.  Cup your hand beneath the clip as your prying them off, I lost 2 somewhere in the engine bay!  (Autozone has the tool and replacements)
(file photo)




6.  Use a large moving blanket or sheet of plastic and cover the entire engine bay, even drape it over the fenders for added protection.
 
I used a 4x4 piece of wood to support the hood solid and to give it the additional height when drilling and cutting.

 

 




7.  Now comes the 2nd point of no return. Get a punch and mark your drill spot approximately ¾” – 1” away from the tape’s edge.
 
Using a ¼” drill or larger (or step drill if you prefer), make yourself a makeshift drill-stop by wrapping several layers of masking tape about a ¾” up then drill your hole into the hood using the punch dimple as your mark.
 
Important:  You must use the punch prior to drilling or risk the drill bit walking onto your hood paint!

 

 









8.  Using a jigsaw with a NEW blade (at least a 14TPI or finer (up to 24), drop it into the hole you drilled and start cutting.  Don’t rush the cut.  Let the blade do it’s cutting.
 
Stop every several inches and lay some masking tape across the cut area to reduce any chattering and/or bouncing.
 
Tip:  Chips and shavings will start to fly everywhere!  Learn from my mistake, drape something over the whole windshield, most of the roof, and outside the masking lines on the hood.

 

Edit by Octavio Diaz. Wrap some tape around the base of the Jigsaw as shown in the picture below.  It will reduce the chance of the saw scratching through the tape and leaving marks on the hood.

 





9.  Get a small file and file down any sharp edges along the cut area.
 
I used some primer along the edge, but this is optional.

 

 


10.  Take some time now to clean up any remaining metal shavings then peel up all the masking tape except for the centerline tape.

 

 




11.  Locate the ball stud bracket on the intake manifold using the supplied U-clamp.  Use Loctite on the Allen stud.

 

 




Just a note, I have already deviated from the CDC directions because I found some problems in their sequence.  By doing the steps their way, you’ll run the risk of having your scoop not centered within the upper trim ring.
 
What I did was to ‘pre-fit’ the Shaker shroud before permanently tacking down the upper trim ring to the hood.  The trim ring has substantial play within the hood cut-out, so final placement is critical.
 
If you want the scoop to be perfectly centered with even gaps around the trim ring, follow my sequence.


12.  Remove the 2 upper throttle body bolts and set aside.
 
These are the primary attachment points for the Shaker shroud (the ball cup on the intake manifold being secondary).
 
The 2 ‘L’ brackets on the shroud are slotted side to side, allowing for some adjustments.
 
Also, disconnect the red/black MAF sensor plug from the air tube (red lock lever slides back to release the plug).
 
Note:  If using the stock intake, modify the hose clamp that connects the air tube to the throttle body per CDC’s instruction (the stock location of the clamping screw interferes with the shroud, it gets moved over to the side like where I installed mine on the K&N).  

 

 


13.  Pre-fit the Shaker shroud on top of the engine.
 
Engage the ball on the bottom of the shroud to the ball stud bracket installed in step 11.  The front ‘L’ brackets get positioned to the throttle body (do not install the 2 bolts yet removed from step 12).
 
Now things are coming together!  But, don’t get too excited, there’s still more work ahead.
 
Take note on the front and rear sections of the shroud during this pre-fit step.
 
You will see the MAF sensor on the K&N air tube rides the front corner of the shroud fairly hard. (For those with the OEM air box or other CAI systems, this won’t be an issue)
 
Check for clearance to a grounding strap on the firewall.  If it’s riding, get some needle nose pliers and bend it down away from the shroud.
 
Ensure that the brake booster line is routed outside of the shroud.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 




14.  Modify the shroud to accommodate the MAF plug for the K&N.
 
NOTE:  If you have the OEM air box, skip this step.
 
Mark the location of where you’ll need to cut a hole in the shroud to feed through the MAF plug. 
Remove shroud from car.
 
Using a hole saw, cut a 2” hole into the shroud.  Once complete, file smooth.

 

 

 

 




15.  Once again, pre-fit the shroud back on the engine.
 
Ensure that the MAF sensor now has clearance to the shroud.
 
Take a look around and see if anything else is riding or needs to be modified.
 
I discovered that the shroud was rubbing up against the lower radiator hose, so additional trimming was required to gain clearance.

 

 




16.  Close the hood completely (full latch).
 
No fasteners are installed at this point so the shroud can remain in an adjustable state.
 
Now take a look at what’s going on. 
 
First thing you want to do is align the center vertical rib in the scoop to the hood’s centerline (from the masking tape you laid down earlier).



17.  Open the hood and re-install the 2 throttle body bolts removed from step 12.
 
This is the part where lots of patience will come in handy.
 
Access to these throttle body bolts will be difficult, and those with the C&L, it’ll be next to impossible without further trimming of the shroud.
 
However, with this K&N, it is possible to access the bolts without any modification to the shroud.
 
Tape together a deep ¼” drive 10mm socket to a long extension so it won’t fall off.  Then, lightly tape the bolt into the socket so it won’t fall off as you guide it under the shroud.  With the aid of a flashlight, insert the bolts through the ‘L’ bracket and into the throttle body and start them by hand.  You made need to push down and/or pull up on the corner of the scoop to get the bolts to start threading.
 
Do not torque these bolts down yet, just leave them loose. 

 

Edit by Octavio Diaz: If you are using a C&L, there will be no clearance to install the bolts. Instead, you will want to install studs on the top 2 bolts and tighten the T/B with nuts and locking washers prior to installing the shaker.  In this scenario, there is no need to tighten anything on the front of the shaker.  The front holes of the shaker simply slide over the remaining portions of the studs and then snap down in the back on top of the Ball Stud bracket.


 


18.  Close and latch the hood once more.
 
This is the final alignment step of the scoop and upper trim ring.
 
Ensure that the scoop’s center rib is perfectly aligned to the hood’s centerline and that it’s also not canted in the rear one way or the other.
 
Peel back the centerline masking tape, but don’t remove it, just incase you need to reference back to it.
Drop the upper trim ring onto the hood.  Float the trim ring into place (will have a fair amount of play in all directions) making sure that the side to side gap and front to rear gap to the scoop is even and centered. 
 
Now you see why we’re deviating from CDC’s direction which would’ve had you permanently tack the trim ring to the hood after step 10.
 
Once the scoop and trim ring is in place, lay down some masking tape to border the trim ring and make any marks (for reference) on the tape to make sure the trim ring gets installed in the exact spot you aligned it in.

 

 

19.  Prep and install the 3M tape on the upper trim ring.
 
Lightly sand the bottom area of the trim ring where the 3M tape will go.  CDC recommends 80-120 grit sand paper.
 
Clean the area with the supplied alcohol pad (or use your own with a clean rag). 
 
Wipe the contact area with the supplied 3M Adhesion Promoter and let dry.
 
Install the 3M double side tape on the trim ring.  Keep it in one long piece, working around each corner and keeping it as flat as possible.  I laid the tape down separately at the corners, but in hindsight, I should’ve kept it as one piece because it’ll make positioning on the hood much easier.  Mine was a one shot deal; not recommended.



20.  Wipe down the area of the hood with alcohol where the trim ring will be installed.
 
Peel back 3-4” of the red tape backing of the 3M tape and position the trim ring back onto the hood aligning it to the reference tape marks.  Once the trim ring is tacked down, slowly peel away the rest of the tape backing always ensuring that it remains aligned with the reference tapes.
 
Once all the tape backing is removed, press down on the trim ring with your fingers to completely seat it.
(no picture)


21.  Open the hood and go for final torque on the throttle body bolts.
Torque:  89lbs-in



22.  Temporarily re-install the hood liner removed from step 5.
 
You don’t have to use all the push-in fasteners, just a few just to hold it in place.
 
Using a grease pencil, trace the outline of the upper trim ring from the top of the hood.



 

 

23.  Remove the hood liner off the car.
 
Lay down the hood liner on the floor and place the lower trim ring on the liner (hump with felt strip at bottom – rear of car) so it matches the grease pencil line you made from the upper trim ring.
 
Trace around the outside of the lower trim ring then remove the ring off the liner.
 
Measure ½” in towards the center from the newly traced outer line.  Make several ½” marks around the perimeter then free hand (or use a straight edge) to join all the marks.
 
You now should have 3 separate and complete trace marks on the liner.
 
Using a utility knife, trace and cut out the ½” (middle of the 3 lines) line you made.  The liner cuts pretty easily.

 

 

24.  Final ring assembly.
 
Re-install the hood liner using all of the push-in retainers.
 
Install the lower trim ring up against the upper trim ring sandwiching the hood liner in-between.  Make sure that the hump with felt strip is at the bottom.
 
The two trim rings will snap together.
 
Using a small indexing pin (like a punch or equivalent), align the holes where the rivets will be installed, 4 total.
Once aligned, insert the rivet and install.


 
You’ll need a rivet installing tool to perform this.

 

 

Edit by Octavio Diaz:

 

The rivets supplied by CDC are very thin and consequently so are the holes.  Lining the holes up proved to be very difficult.  I chose to drill the holes slightly larger and use the next sized larger rivets.  This made it much easier.

 



 


 

 



25.  The Shaker install is almost complete.
 
All that’s left at this point is the duct work to either the CAI heat shield or to the OEM air box.



26A.  Air duct work routing for OEM intake.
 
Remove the air box using CDC’s instructions.  Position the supplied paper template in preparation to cut a hole into the side of the air box.
 
Important:  The hole must be precisely 3” in diameter.  CDC recommends drilling a 2 ¾” diameter hole, then open it to 3” by hand using a file.
 
Clear the air box of any debris, then snap in the lower CDC air tube into the 3” opening in the box.
 
Re-install the air box back into the car using the supplied S&B hi-flow air filter (or use any air filter you want).
 
Re-connect the MAF connector to the sensor in the air tube.
 
Using the supplied 3” rubber coupler and hose clamps, connect the upper and lower air tubes together.
 
Lastly, route the 4 water drain hoses located at each corner of the shroud down towards the bottom so water can freely flow out.  Do not route next to the exhaust manifold or any moving parts.  Secure with the supplied zip ties (optional, but recommended).
 
The following are file photos not of my car; for reference only.

 

 




26B.  Air duct work routing for K&N CAI.
 
Re-connect the MAF connector to the sensor in the K&N air tube.
 
Route the 4 water drain hoses located at each corner of the shroud down towards the bottom so water can freely flow out.  Do not route next to the exhaust manifold or any moving parts.  Secure with the supplied zip ties (optional, but recommended).
 
I had to modify the lower air tube in order for it to align to the heat shield; I tried to keep this hole as low as possible.
 
Here’s what the issue was..

 




As you see, the lower air duct connection was no where close to the heat shield.
 
I cut a section out of the middle of the lower duct in an attempt to shorten it, thus raising it.  It worked, but that middle section is very flimsy making the cutting and trimming very difficult.  I used a hacksaw.

 

 

Next step was to drill a perfect 3” hole into the side of the heat shield.  Of course, I didn’t have a 3” hole saw, so I had to go buy one just for this purpose.  The material used for the shield is steel, drilling into it was a PITA to say the least.  Luckily, I had a drill press at my disposal (tip: wrap tape all over any clamping surface on the heat shield to protect it from any marring).   Once the hole was cut, I filed the rough edges and touched it up with some flat back paint.

As things started to come together, I hit a bump.  Being the heat shield is (about) an inch more forward than where the OEM air box would be, the 3” rubber coupler that connects the upper to lower air duct was at it’s limit.  Press down on the air duct ever so slightly would cause the lower duct to pop out from the coupler.  Bottom line, the 3” coupler was too short.  Not only that, but a slight angularity issue also came into play as a result of modifying the lower duct.


I searched high and lower for a 3” ID coupler that was at least 3 ½” in length.  I was about to give up when I found Hose Techniques.  They has exactly what I was searching for, a black hump hose with a 3” ID x 3 ½” length, but at a price ($30!). 
 
Hump hoses are used when you have a slight deflection between two connecting pipes.
 
I also decided to replace the lower rubber coupler that held my modified lower duct together with a matching black silicone hose (same material as the hump hose).  Thankfully, this one was only $12.

Hump hose PN#:  52.300-350-110
Straight hose PN#:  50.300-300-110

 

In the end, everything worked out to my satisfaction.

 

 



Edited by Octavio Diaz:
I Took a slightly different Approach then Bill at this point.  Instead of going with the hump hose and straight hose, I simply bought a piece of 3’x3” Spectre Flex hose at Auozone for $19.99.  This is a 3’ hose with couplings ends and clamps.  I heated one of the couplings with a heat gun since it was quite cold in the garage and the rubber was a bit stiff.  I then slid it over the modified lower duct and held it in place with one of the 3” clamps.  I then attached the flex hose to the lower duct and measured enough of the hose to connect to the Cold air outlet on the shaker.

 

Finally, I trimmed the straight hose that came with the shaker and installed it inside the air shield to extend the air flow and focus it directly onto the filter.  I held this piece of hose with the other 3” clamp that came with the Spectre hose.



 

Spectre / 3 ft. x 3 in. Black Air Duct Hose P/N:  8741

 

 

 

 

 

Installing 281 Emblem:

 

The Emblems are available from Autobadges.com for $10 each

 

There are different ways of installing decals and emblems, from the one eye method to the measuring tape; I used both.

Also, there's the question of how far forward (or back) should the emblem be on the scoop. The 69/70 Shaker scoops had their CID emblems near the front of the scoop opening and the center reserved for any script emblems (e.g. Cobra Jet). I placed the leading edge of the emblem even with the top center cooling fin/rib. As far as up and down, I just chose it to be closer to the lower half.

Here's how I installed them:

 

* Wipe the general area where the emblem is to be placed with alcohol.

* Lay down a strip of masking tape perpendicular to the center scoop rib line.



* Place the emblem's forward edge against the masking line using some tape to hold it in place. Up/down location as well as clocking (leveling) should be done at this point as well.

 


(This is where I spent most of my time scratching my head trying to decide how I wanted the emblem to be clocked. Follow the scoop line or true level? I did both and always stepped back to see how I liked it. What looked good to me was a combination of both.)


* Place another strip of masking tape (perpendicular) over the tape holding the emblem. This will ensure that the emblem will swing back down into the layout position with minimal shifting.



  • Lift up the emblem just high enough to remove the 3M backing.

 




* Swing the emblem back down onto the scoop.


 

 

* Apply pressure evenly across the emblem to seat the tape.



Note: Once one side is complete, take some measurements at various spots and duplicate it for the other side to ensure a mirror image.


The emblem is made of plastic, so it can follow the slight contoured surface of the scoop. The corner edge may have a little trouble sticking, but I think once out in the sun and the adhesive heats up a bit you can press down on the corners to have them stick. That 3M tape that's used is some pretty strong stuff.

This simple and inexpensive mod really draws attention to the Shaker scoop

 

Edited by Octavio Diaz:

 

Use alcohol to clean the shaker before installing.

 

If you are installing this in a cold climate, use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm up the shaker and the badge before laying the sticker on the shaker. 

 

 

Installation complete!!


Reference:  CDC Shaker Install Manual & Mustang Monthly Shaker Install
 
 
On car pics:
    

 

    

Trimming the Shaker:

By Octavio Diaz
 
In my opinion, one of the things that I did not like about the shaker is that the plastic shroud covered too much of the Engine.  If you have a stock engine that may be a good thing because it hides the ugly unfinished valve covers.  However, I you spent the money and or time installing aftermarket covers or customizing your covers, you are going to want to show them off.

 

This is a fairly simple procedure.  First, place the shaker upside down on a flat surface and remove the 6 bolts holding the metal shaker to the plastic shroud.  Next, remove the cold air tube from the shroud by removing the 2 nuts and bolts attaching it to the shroud.

 

 

 

Lay a strip of masking tape where you want the shroud trimmed.  This is where you get be creative.  Cut off as much or as little of the shroud as you need to expose your engine and accessories.  Use a large socket or other round device to mark the corners and then simply connect the lines with a straight edge.

 

 

 

Now, carefully cut along the line.  Others have recommended using a dremmel tool with a router bit but I found that using a jigsaw gave me the straightest lines.  You want to start near the rear left corner  since there is a lot of material in this section and if you make a mistake you may be able to get away with trimming off a little more material.   (next three pictures courtesy of Taco Bill)

 

 

 

Install door edge molding along the edges.

 

 

Reattach the cold air duct and the shaker onto the shroud reversing the procedure used to remove them.

 

Finally, use “Mustang” Sill letters from Rocky Mountain Graphics to fill in the Mustang letters on the aluminum plate on the shroud.  I chose red of course.